The term „fast fashion“ describes a development in the fashion industry that emerged in the 1990s. Mass-produced clothing is put on the market at dumping prices and at very short intervals. While the luxury fashion houses present only two manageable collections a year in their haute couture fashion shows, the fast fashion brands offer thousands of new models online – every day. People are now even talking about “ultra fast fashion”. Characteristic of this „super fast fashion“ are, firstly, the low prices that tempt us to consume even more clothing even more often, and secondly, the incredibly short intervals between collections that constantly urge us to chase the latest fashion trend. In order to be versatile in terms of fashion, we buy even more clothes even more often. Many people submit to the dictates of the fashion chains and flirt with the idea of being a “fashion victim”. Fashionistas are permanently under massive pressure not to miss a trend.

The extravagant consumption of cheap clothing is neither free of consequences – nor free of charge. Consumers are well aware of the high price paid by others for cheap fashion in our stead, but we are often willing to ignore these consequences for the love of bargain hunting. The manufacture of fast fashion goes hand-in-hand with irreversible environmental pollution and an exorbitant waste of resources in the producing countries. The unscrupulous exploitation of seamstresses in low-wage countries in the Global South makes “fashion victims” of these workers – in the true sense of the word. The climate catastrophe, to which the climate killer “clothing”, with its appalling CO2 balance clearly contributes, will ultimately cost us all dearly. Nevertheless, we keep buying new things although our wardrobes are full, and we like to think we are doing good by generously donating our old clothes. A high proportion of this donated clothing lands on rubbish dumps, mainly in Africa, with serious ecological consequences. Wearable items are sorted out and sold at clothing markets in these countries. These second-hand markets are, in turn, directly associated with the decline of local textile production.

The falling prices of fast fashion correlate with a deterioration in quality. However, the majority of people in our “throwaway” society are by no means aware of the decreasing lifespan of clothing in general. Most articles are not discarded due to wear and tear, but because they are no longer trendy. Fortunately, endless consumption has led to a rethink among an increasing number of people. This change of consciousness is reflected in a more responsible use of the clothes already owned. Mending and repairing have become fashionable again, but are no longer taught in sewing lessons, but imitated in internet tutorials. The techniques used are not at all new. For example, traditional Japanese boro and sashiko in modified form transform tattered jeans into a hip lifestyle product. Worn-out clothing is thus not only turned into something new, but transformed into something better. This is not just recycling, but an improvement now referred to as “upcycling”. One aim of the exhibition is to contrast the old handicraft techniques with contemporary methods and to demonstrate that this consequence of fast fashion is, at the same time, a recourse to the tried and true.

Upcycling is not only implemented as a means of repair. Out-of-fashion clothing is altered in a manner which enhances its quality and makes it a pleasure to wear again. A positive side effect: the self-created article is able to express the individuality of its wearer – in contrast to the global fashion mainstream. Upcycling is no longer an insider tip. It is part of a new do-it-yourself trend that has developed during the last few years – also favoured by the Covid lockdowns. Bloggers and influencers across the world are making this trend very popular. This again is not a new phenomenon, as is illustrated by the items exhibited in the Textile Museum. Altering clothes was a matter of course until a few decades ago. The revival of creative DIY in its many facets is another consequence of fast fashion and is also shown in our exhibition, which is entitled “Cheap is too expensive. Fast Fashion and its consequences”.

…all just greenwashing?

The DIY hype not only turns old clothes into new favourite fashion items, but also creates a diversity of accessories such as handbags. However, the do-it-yourself trend cannot in any way mitigate the immense ecological and social consequences of fast fashion. Is DIY all just greenwashing?